No discussion. The light salmon pink rosés are by far the most fashionable. And by far I mean a Verstappen-esque lead. But the rosé genre represents a whole spectrum of different styles, colours and intensities, ranging from a delicate 'onion-skin' rosé to the very intense ruby red varieties which, admittedly, have more similarities with a red wine than a rosé. We in our little Belgium are used to the lighter style, almost always the result of the direct press method . This method can, in broad terms, be compared well with the classic method for white wine production combined with a few hours of skin contact (think of a classic rosé from Provence). Or even without skin contact , the method for the production of Vin Gris. Direct press rosés are playful, easily digestible and can be tapped well chilled . The downside? This style of rosé is refreshing but is rarely or never the most complex & layered variant.
Two other variations, blending and saignée , deserve a mention, but are in practice rather rare today . Saignée, or bleeding, is letting part of the wine drain off in order to make the red wine more concentrated and to make a rosé from the resulting by-product. Admittedly; that reads negatively, but it is not by definition. Some producers and appellations have even made it their specialty. Blending, on the other hand, is exactly what you think it is; mixing white and red wine together, which sounds logical , if it weren't for the fact that this method is only permitted by the European Union in the Champagne region. That leaves us with one method, the one to which this Pulitzer-worthy piece of writing was dedicated by the undersigned: maceration .
A rosé wine based on the maceration method remains in contact with the (blue) skin of the grape for a few hours longer. This is exactly what extracts an extra amount of color and flavor. This type of rosé is popularly known as the 'dark-colored rosés' of the wine world. And what these deep-colored rosés are unfairly still associated with is 'sweet' and 'intensely fruity', characteristics that they actually shook off a long time ago. Of course, these wines are, partly due to the production method, more aromatic and intense. But in addition, despite their color, they are often bone dry, with even some tannins on the aftertaste to bring that extra bite and je-ne-sais-quoi .
That these macerations are more intense and firmer than a direct press rosé is crystal clear. But precisely that which at first sight (Do you have it?! Sight! Colour! No?) seems a weakness, and I mean the colour, the intensity and the body, is paradoxically also its strength. This category is with speaking ease the Manchester City of rosé wines.
No other type of rosé can be better married at the dining table in terms of gastronomy . The advantage of deeper colored rosés is that they are a lot more versatile with dishes. Let's, you and I, compare a swimming pool rosé to it. Super fun, refreshing and easy going in the spring/summer sun. True. But what if you combine the wine with daring (oriental) flavors? Or with a barbecue? Or with (vegetarian) vegetable preparations, does that one swimming pool rosé still have enough texture and complexity to hold its own against all those different flavor profiles? A richer, somewhat more pronounced texture with even some tannins on the finish are then simply the way to go . Of course, these wines can be drunk just as chilled as a direct press. But try a few degrees less cold, you will be amazed by the layers of complexity that will jump out of your glass.
Does every region and producer produce these types of rosés? No, far from it. A rule of thumb is that the further south the wine region, the greater the chance of encountering a maceration. One of the historic wine regions and oldest AOCs in France, Tavel , in the Southern Rhône, has been known for this for centuries. It is not without reason that they are successfully working their way back here. Or what about rosés from Palette, Provence, or Irouléguy, in the Sud-Ouest? Or the earthy rosados from Rioja, Spain. Or Chiaretto, from Bardolino? Or, under the motto ' save the best for last '; a Cerasuolo , from central or southern Italy?!
I would like to zoom in on the latter, Cerasuolo. Subjective as I am. The name refers to the deep cherry red colour and is absolutely not linked to the grape. For example, a Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo , from the Abruzzo region, must be at least 85% based on the Montepulciano grape, while most viticultori opt for a mono-cèpage Montepulciano. These rosati are aromatic, fleshy and ultra-umami and, if you ask my humble opinion , the best buys in the wonderful world of rosé, such as that of Tiberio. Incidentally, one of the reasons why we can rub our thumbs with happiness that we may represent perhaps one of the strongest Cerasuolos of Italy in Belgium!
Below is a shortlist of ten (dark) rosés that you simply must have tasted this summer. As always, all opinions stated are my own , and without limiting myself to our own portfolio (!);
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2022 Clarè, GD Vajra - Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Italy
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2022 Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, Tiberio - Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo DOC, Italy
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2022 Radice, Paltrinieri - Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, Italy
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2022 Rosé, Triennes by Dujac & DRC - Mediterranée IGP, France
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2021 Rosé, Château Simone - Palette AOC, France
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2021 Rosato, Bonavita - Faro DOC, Italy
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2021 Rosé, Domaine Tempier - Bandol AOC, France
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2021 Rosato, Silvia Zucchi - Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, Italy
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2020 Tavel, Château de Trinquevedel - Tavel AOC, France
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2020 Chiar'Otto, Villa Calicantus - Bardolino Chiaretto Superiore DOC, Italy
