Okay, Querciabella is for me one of the strongest and, without a doubt, best performing domains of the moment within the entire Chianti Classico appellation. An appellation that in the meantime (!) may once again take its rightful place as one of the most important wine regions on this planet! It used to be different though…
When I first started working weekends at Spiga d'Oro, my parents' restaurant, the world looked completely different. Flashback to 2001/2002. The general smoking ban in the hospitality industry was (unfortunately) not yet in effect and my main task was to take the guests' coats, pour water, clear glasses and, yes indeed, replace and clean ashtrays. Exotic names such as Beta, Delta and Omikron were only of interest to Greek scholars at the time. Anderlecht won one national title after another and (yes, we are finally getting back to our story!) Chianti (Classico) was a shadow of its former self.
Chianti Classico was synonymous with dramatic fiascos these days. The name of the bottle was not stolen: that typical basket bottle, you know, the one covered with straw, was typical of Chianti wine and is literally called Fiasco… In it was a lean, sour red wine with very angular tannins and as much length as the average garden gnome in your backyard. The consumer knew this all too well and avoided Chianti Classico as soon as he could. And he was right. Chianti Classico had become a laughing stock (empty the bottle and ram a candle into it, then at least you had something to do with the bottle!) and the few top producers of the appellation were forced to label their wines 'Vino di Tavola' instead of Chianti or Chianti Classico.
But times change! A smoking ban was introduced, we now all know what Delta and Omikron stand for, Anderlecht and national titles are (for the time being) no longer placed in the same sentence, and Chianti Classico was hit by a veritable tsunami of quality. How did that happen, you ask? Well, a combination of factors actually. In Chianti (Classico) they also knew that things couldn't go on like this, and that quantities had to go down while quality had to drastically increase. At the same time, there was competitive pressure from the so-called 'New World countries' that could combine quality and competitive prices (at least at the time). And, most importantly of all, a new generation was ready: terroir-conscious winemakers with know-how. Daughters and sons of winemakers who had done internships abroad and came to indulge their knowledge in their beautiful home region. Add to that a few foreign investments followed by eno-tourism that received a new boost and we're more or less there.
One of the domains that was caught in that tsunami was Crombé's one and only 'beautiful tree': Querciabella, situated in the commune of Greve in Chianti, with a beautiful driveway surrounded by wonderful oaks. The domain, situated on a hill, looks far out over its vineyards. It was one of the very first domains in Chianti Classico to obtain a certificate for biodynamics. And today they even work completely in 'vegan-biodynamic' style (it sounds complex, it is complex...). The fact that Querciabella is a favorite domain for many a wine guide, wine critic and wine blogger (and wine nerd, like me) also owes it to its altitude. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of more than 600m, which ensures sufficient cooling, a hugely important detail in times of global warming. And then finally you have the winemaker. The famous Giacomo Tachis once had a hand in the pie here, but today it is the South African Manfred Ing who is in charge. And if there is a red-hot-famous-name in Tuscany (a bit like the semi-Belgian Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta) then it is Manfred Ing!
Sounds too good and too subjective to be true? Look, in my first paragraph I promised you, dear reader, not to lie. Well, I won't. Let me prove it to you. Buy yourself a bottle of Chianti Classico 2018 from Querciabella. The basic Chianti Classico will cost you the full 19.60 EUR, and you'll get almost 100 EUR in wine value in return. Still sounds too much? Oooookkaaaaaay… let's end with Jancis Robinson and Walter Speller's opinion on the 2018. Jancis & Walter are internationally renowned wine writers and at least real pros. No wanna-be's (like me?).
Jancis -> ' Ruby colour. Very composed, superior transparent Tuscan red. No rough edges and yet ample opportunity for further development. Really rather beautiful at this stage. Just what you want from a Chianti Classico. Well done. Buy it! '
Walter -> ' Medium to deep crimson. Gorgeous nose of cherry and with the scent of cigar box. Luscious juicy fruit on the palate and silky tannins that make their mark. Beautiful balance and elegant and concentrated at the same time. Amazing length and focus. '
